What is Ikat Fabric?

Ikat is a textile pattern that’s timeless and always in style. Its motifs inspire artists and designers across the globe.

Like any fabric, ikat is made of natural fibers that are safe for the environment and human skin. But some types are more environmentally friendly than others. Look for Silk Mark or USDA organic certification when selecting a wool ikat fabric.

Origins

Throughout history, ikats have been manifested as religious robes, political ambitions, and fashion world crazes. They’ve also entered the world of art, transforming modern and contemporary works.

It is difficult to pinpoint exactly where ikats originated. But, it’s likely that the weaving innovation arose independently in multiple regions and cultures that never had contact with each other.

Today, ikat fabrics can be found in Asia, Central America, South America, Africa, and beyond. In the US, fashion designer Oscar de la Renta is credited with popularizing ikat designs in Euro-American haute couture. During the ’90s, he traveled to Uzbekistan and commissioned local weavers to produce silk ikats for his collections for Balmain. His 1997 haute couture collection was made entirely of these boldly colored, psychedelic geometric ikats.

Materials

The threads used to weave ikat can be made from natural fibers such as silk, cotton, or wool. They can also be synthetic. The type of fiber used determines the style of ikat fabric produced.

The process of making ikat requires several dyeings to produce a complex pattern. The threads are first tied and then dyed in a pattern to create the desired look. The bindings are then removed and the yarns are woven together.

Hand-spun or machine spun cotton is commonly used for ikat fabric. This fabric can be dipped in multiple dyebaths to achieve deep resonant colors. Some ikat traditions, such as those of Central Asia, encourage a blurred aesthetic while others such as the ones in Indonesia and South America favor more precise warp alignment.

Types

Ikat fabric is a versatile type of cloth that can be used to make various handmade Uzbek articles, including clothing, tapestries and other fabric ornaments. It can also be used to create home furnishings, such as curtains, sofa covers and tablecloths. Ikat is often dyed with natural plant dyes, which give the fabric unique colors and patterns. The dyeing process is intricate, so each piece of ikat fabric is one-of-a-kind.

While the majority of ikat fabric is made from silk or wool, it can also be made from cotton and other textile fibers. The fabric is dyed before it is woven, so the weaver must be very skilled to line up the dyed yarns accurately. This can be very difficult and expensive, which is why ikat fabrics with little blurriness are more valuable.

Certifications

Ikats made from silk or wool are often certified as organic by organizations like Ecocert, while those crafted from synthetic fibers may be eligible for Global Recycle Standard certification. It is also possible for weavers to be ISO-certified, as is the case with weft ikat traditions in India, Japan and Indonesia.

The process of weaving ikat is incredibly labor-intensive and time-consuming. Because of this, ikat fabrics tend to be more expensive than other types of cloth. However, the enduring beauty of ikat textiles makes them worth the investment for many consumers. Moreover, designers like Oscar de la Renta have incorporated ikat motifs into their collections, creating a fashion trend that has continued to this day. The ikat designs can be seen on a wide range of garments, including shawls, scarves, and sarongs.

Price

Ikat fabric is usually more expensive than other textiles, especially those made with silk or wool. The more elaborate the ikat, the more expensive it will be.

Ikat sarees with complex patterns, multiple hues and slight blurriness are particularly difficult to make. This is because the weaver has to meticulously line up dyed yarn bundles so that the resulting cloth has perfect ikat patterns.

Ikats can be made with any textile fiber that takes dye, including cotton, silk, wool, rayon and polyester. However, hand-spun cotton is a symbol of authenticity and cultural heritage that many people are willing to pay more for. These fabrics are often used in clothing, such as shirts and dresses, or home furnishings like curtains. They can also be used to create accessories, such as scarves and shawls.