Delhi Diaries!
A lot of people despise Delhi.
Let’s face it: this city doesn’t have the best of reputations.
Delhi is polluted, congested, dirty, smelly, loud, and scams are rampant. The air is toxic to breathe, there’s non-stop hassle to deal with, and the sheer number of people can leave you feeling overwhelmed. It’s maddening at times.
Am I selling this city to you yet?
Because there’s just as much to love about it. In fact, Delhi is one of my favourite cities on the planet, and I fell for it from the moment I stepped foot on its busy streets.
You’ve got its fantastic food scene, the lush parks, the incredible architecture, the blend of cultures, the city’s long and fascinating history, and the fact that it’s unlike anywhere else on earth. And there’s so much beauty in amongst the challenges.
Plenty of first-time visitors to India’s capital hear about Delhi’s reputation and decide to duck in and out of the city as quickly as possible.
I think they’re making a big mistake by doing so.
Even if it’s your first time in India and you’re feeling intimidated, don’t skip over Delhi. This city has so much to offer its visitors, and I’d suggest allocating at least three days to exploring.
Today’s post is going to be an itinerary for how to spend three days in Delhi, a list of the best places to see in Delhi, a photo essay, and a love letter to this frenetic yet wonderful city.
Let’s get started.
HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD YOU SPEND IN DELHI?
Three days is the perfect amount of time to spend in Delhi.
Why three?
Well, there are three main areas in the city.
You’ve got crumbling, chaotic Old Delhi, once the magnificent walled city of Shahjahanabad in the 17th century. This area is all about the culture shock, with so many sights and sounds and smells to absorb at once.
There’s New Delhi, which was created by the British when they decided to build a new capital in India — this part is all about the gleaming buildings, government structures, and a sense of a little more order.
And to the south, you’ll find South Delhi — an upmarket residential neighbourhood that’s calmer, quieter, and leafier than the rest of the city.
All three areas have so much to offer up to visitors.
It therefore makes sense to devote at least one day to each of these three distinct areas. I recommend spending your first day in town wandering through Old Delhi, your second day marvelling at New Delhi, and your third day unwinding in South Delhi.
It’s going to make for the perfect introduction to the city.
DAY ONE: THE BEST TIME TO EXPLORE OLD DELHI!
When you picture the commotion and cacophony of Delhi, you’re most likely thinking of Old Delhi.
I recommend spending a full day in this area, allowing your senses to be attacked as you dodge rickshaws and motorbikes and thousands of people, avoiding cows and goats and dogs as you wander down narrow alleyways, smelling incense and street food and, um, things that are a little less pleasant.
There’s nowhere on earth quite like Old Delhi.
Start your day, though, by heading to the Red Fort when it opens. Without the crowds of tourists, it’ll bring about a peaceful start to a day that’s likely to be anything but.
Built from sandstone in the 1600s and originally used as a residence for Mughal emperors, the inner structures have since been plundered and destroyed, yet it’s still worth visiting.
Despite being right in the heart of Delhi, it’s surprisingly calming to wander through this large area of green space, and it makes for a tranquil introduction to the city’s architecture.
Jama Masjid is just a 15-minute walk away from the Red Fort, so it’s the next logical stop on a tour of Old Delhi.
This mosque is one of the largest in Delhi, able to hold a whopping 25,000 people at a time, and is one of the most impressive structures in the city.
One highlight is climbing to the top of one of the minarets for a wonderful view over Old Delhi. It’s so worth doing, even though the staircase is cramped, dark, and daunting to walk up/down.
Watch out for scammers here! There’s plenty of people looking to take advantage of tourists in this area. You’ll have to pay to hire robes, no matter how covered up you are, pay for a camera permit, and somebody will undoubtedly take your shoes off you and ask for a tip for keeping them safe when you return.
Venture next to Raj Ghat, a memorial to Gandhi that’s worth visiting, despite looking understated compared to everything you’ll have seen so far. Of course, its simplicity is the point.
Raj Ghat is a 30-minute walk from Jama Masjid, but the walk itself isn’t particularly exciting, so feel free to grab a rickshaw or an Uber to get there.
The memorial comprises a small black marble platform with an eternal flame at one end, marking the exact spot where Gandhi’s body was cremated.
Around the memorial, there’s plenty of manicured green space that’s filled with people picnicking and relaxing, and it’s a calming area for meditating, paying your respects, and taking a break from the chaos.
And believe me, you’re going to want to take that break because your next stop is going to be Chandni Chowk.
You’ve never been anywhere like Chandni Chowk.
This unbelievable district and market is the heart of Old Delhi and it’s unlike anywhere you’ll have ever been before. The chaos! The traffic! The confusion! The smells! The sounds!
I couldn’t get enough of it.
Most of the time, you’ll have no idea where to even walk, as there’s zero opportunity to just stand and soak it all in. Instead, everybody will be swarming around you, moving, moving, moving, and sounding their horns to get you moving, too.
There was always something fascinating to see, as the video below illustrates.
As you walk the alleys of Old Delhi, you’ll be overcome by an odd, dizzying sensation, where you feel as though you don’t belong and you have no idea what’s happening. You’ll wonder if you’ve stepped foot on another planet.
If you’re anything like me, it’s going to make you feel so alive.
Yes, this is somewhere that’s certain to leave you feeling overwhelmed, but it’s somewhere you have to see. It’s somewhere where you’ll want to have your camera to hand, knowing that there’s so much going on but that it’s impossible to capture it in a single frame.
Still, you’ll have fun trying.
One of best ways to learn more about Delhi’s food scene is to jump on a street food tour. I recommend the offering from UrbanAdventures.
Diving mouthfirst into a city’s food scene is the best way to get to know a place, and in India, I quickly found I was clueless.
As I’d wandered the streets of Old Delhi earlier that afternoon, I’d quickly realised I had no idea what any of the dishes were. I didn’t recognise a thing!
That was intimidating.
With fears of Delhi Belly reverberating through my head, I’d been too nervous to go anywhere near the street food through worry that I’d get sick.
When you couple that with not even being able to identify the dishes that were for sale, I was mostly skirting past the stalls with a nervous expression on my face.
That was exactly why I recommend jumping on this tour.
Guided by a charismatic university student who has lived in Delhi her entire life, she’s the perfect person to introduce you to the Delhi food scene. This guide lives for food and she raves over getting to be a street food tour guide and how much she enjoyed eating 10 items a night.
On the tour, you’ll get to sample Indian-style shawarma, golgappas (my favourite!), and bhelpuri. Next, comes the pao bhajji and kulfi-falooda, and you’ll rounded off our tour with gulab jamun (another favourite!) and jalebi.
In short, this is a phenomenal activity for your first day in the city. You’ll get to explore the markets and stalls with a local, build up your confidence when it comes to eating on the streets, and — of course — sample some of the best food of your life. I’d honestly take this exact tour again because I want to re-eat all of the delicious snacks!
As we conclude Day 1 of our Delhi exploration with Geniefie, we’ve only scratched the surface of this vibrant city’s treasures. From the majestic monuments to the bustling markets and delectable cuisine, Delhi offers an unforgettable tapestry of experiences. With Geniefie Trip planner as our guide, we’re excited to uncover even more gems in the days to come. Stay tuned for Day 2 as we continue our adventure through the heart of India’s capital!
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